An Inspirational Interview with Artist Damla Yalçın
Nilgün Aytekin // 17.06.2024
This week’s blog post features a guest who is a dear friend and a multi-talented individual. After completing her art education, she made significant contributions to the sustainability practices in the textile industry through her research and master’s thesis on ‘The Role of Biotextiles in Art Practices’. I eagerly and curiously follow her work which brings a fresh perspective to traditional embroidery art and her innovative studies on biotextile materials.
Biotextiles have become the subject of many studies and projects today as an alternative to the synthetic and petrochemical-based fibers used in the traditional textile industry. It is anticipated that the broader production and use of these materials will help reduce the environmental impacts of the textile industry. Let’s take a closer look at what we can learn and what kind of work is being done in this field with the expertise of Damla.
Damla, welcome. I would like to start by getting to know you actually. Who is Damla? Where does your interest in biotextiles come from?
Damla Yalçın: Thank you. I’m a multidisciplinary artist. After studying Painting at Marmara University, I completed my Master’s in Textiles at the same university. I began my art career with painting, and over time, I realized that the conceptual framework I wanted to emphasize in my artistic expression became more pronounced with the technique of embroidery rather than painting. While my works are shaped around childhood, memory, and space themes, they vary in their production processes. My exploration of new surface experiments during my production processes drew me to the field of textiles.
My introduction to biomaterials, especially my relationship with SCOBY and mushrooms, fueled this interest. I can describe myself as a surface researcher. This journey sparked a desire to produce not only in textiles but also in the biological-ecological field. My thesis focuses on the importance of biomaterials used in the fields of textiles and art from a sustainability perspective. These experiences enriched my productions with an interdisciplinary perspective. As a multidisciplinary artist, I understood the importance of bridging painting, textiles, and biological-ecological fields to create new and unique forms of expression. The balance I establish with nature and ecology in my productions shapes my work not just as an aesthetic choice but also with a sense of responsibility.
The textile industry tops the lists as the second most polluting industry. In addition to its energy, water, and chemical usage, the sector’s most serious problem is the high rate of waste. Each year, 85% of the fibers produced are either burned or sent to landfills. Do you think biotextile material options can solve the environmental impacts of the textile industry?
DY: I believe this transformation will happen in the long run. According to scientific reports and data, the textile industry’s impact on nature is evaluated in terms of sustainability, considering the interaction between the industry and the world we live in. Although there are responsibly conscious companies developing innovative approaches in this field, the general efforts of the sector are deemed insufficient, and it is predicted that a sustainable production system cannot be achieved soon.
Biomaterials offer significant advantages in reducing the carbon footprint and managing waste in the clothing industry. These biodegradable materials provide a crucial alternative for a circular economy by reducing the negative environmental impact of garment waste. In addition to the advantages of biomaterials from a sustainability perspective, interdisciplinary collaboration in the textile field is of great importance. The convergence of fields such as fashion design, textile engineering, art, biology, chemistry, craftsmanship, material science, and biotechnology will play a critical role in the development of bio-based textiles. I believe that these collaborations will lay the foundation for innovations and sustainability solutions in the future of biomaterials.
The potential in this area is increasingly being discovered and utilized by artists and designers from various disciplines. This trend is expected to continue growing. However, it is not likely that the textile industry will undergo a rapid sustainable transformation process. These processes are complex at both industry and supply chain levels, which will take time. Therefore, various sectoral and economic factors need to be considered to ensure the broader adoption of biotextiles in both the art and commerce worlds. As designers, artists, conscious manufacturing companies, and global brands adopt these approaches more, global awareness will increase.
Biotextile material options can be a significant solution in reducing the environmental impacts of the textile industry. The raw materials used in traditional textile production are often derived from petrochemicals and require intensive energy use during the production process. These factors increase greenhouse gas emissions and raise the levels of waste and pollution. Biotextiles, on the other hand, are produced from bio-based raw materials and generally consume less water and energy. Moreover, they are biodegradable, thus reducing the waste problem. For instance, the use of plant fibers such as bamboo, flax, and hemp, or the development of alternative materials like mushroom leather can reduce the environmental impacts of the textile industry. However, factors such as the commercial scalability, cost, and performance of textile materials need to be considered. Technological innovations and the development of industrial infrastructures are essential for the widespread adoption of these materials.
How does the production of biotextiles offer an environmentally friendly and sustainable option?
DY: The production of biotextiles offers an environmentally friendly and sustainable option because they provide various environmental benefits. Firstly, biotextiles are produced from renewable resources, which means a lower environmental impact compared to fossil fuel-based textiles. Their production processes generally require less energy, which reduces the carbon footprint. Additionally, the biological processes used in the production of biotextiles help to minimize the use of harmful chemicals typically used in conventional textile production, preventing water pollution and soil damage. A large portion of biotextiles are biodegradable, allowing them to easily decompose in nature at the end of their life cycle, thus reducing waste management issues. Plant-based biotextiles absorb carbon dioxide (CO2) during their growth, helping to balance the amount of greenhouse gases released into the atmosphere. Furthermore, some biotextile production processes use less water compared to traditional methods, which is a significant advantage especially in areas experiencing water scarcity.
The importance of biotechnology from textiles to art, the interdisciplinary nature and the concept of sustainability in the industry, along with the increasing environmental awareness and the need for nature conservation, have become focus points for many industries today. Within the scope of “New Material” research, bio-based textiles, with features such as biodegradability, ethical production, and animal-free leather, are expected to be among the innovations that will redefine the meaning and scope of textiles by providing future-oriented solutions to current problems. In this context, contemporary bio-based art and design works, by addressing and raising awareness about the environment and nature, are leading to new ways of thinking.
Is there awareness about biotextiles in Turkey? Do you think there are sufficient efforts?
DY: Awareness about biotextiles in Turkey is only in the beginning phase. We need to admit that the awareness is still quite low. There are several fundamental reasons for this: Departments and programs oriented towards the production of biological materials are quite limited in Turkey, which prevents the sufficient development of academic and practical knowledge. Additionally, the textile production line in Turkey is generally focused on fast-consumption products, hindering the widespread production and use of biotextiles. Projects and research on biotextiles often do not attract the necessary attention and investment.
Ensuring a more human-centered and sustainable life for future generations depends on our ability to design smarter, use resources more efficiently, establish sustainable production processes, and cultivate a strong consumer consciousness. The most critical factor in achieving all these is our ability to change our mindset with the light of innovative studies. For Turkey, the most important point is that we first need to change our way of thinking on an individual level.
What kind of innovations are there in this field abroad? Can you share some examples with us?
DY: Many alternative vegan leather and fabric examples continue to emerge. If I were to mention some examples that have impressed me; Bolt Threads has developed a biotextile material called Mylo™, using the root system of mushrooms known as mycelium. This material has a leather-like texture, is completely biodegradable, and is used by major brands in the fashion industry. The Italian startup Orange Fiber produces sustainable textile fibers from citrus waste, thus utilizing the waste from the food industry and reducing environmental impact. Piñatex is a biotextile material obtained from pineapple leaves, used in the fashion industry as an environmentally friendly and durable alternative. AlgiKnit is a company that produces biodegradable yarns from seaweed, working to create sustainable yarns and fabrics for the fashion industry. Modern Meadow uses cell culture technology to produce leather-like materials in the lab without harming animals. These innovations show that biotextiles are not only environmentally friendly but also have high-performance and are aesthetically appealing.
A few months ago, you participated in Gate27’s Artist Exchange Program. Can you tell us about this program? What experiences did you gain?
DY: My application process began when I saw Gate27’s open call. As it is an artist exchange program that stands out with its work and approaches to sustainability, I thought it could be the right place to produce the biomaterials I have been researching for a long time. My educational background and artistic approach aligned with the “Bluesky” program. I was happy that my application was accepted.
During the program, I had the opportunity to work at Sabancı University to support the project technically and realized once again how important interdisciplinary work is. I asked Professor Nur Mustafaoğlu and her students from the Faculty of Engineering and Natural Sciences at Sabancı University how we could bring the SCOBY material into this field or how we could intervene with the bacteria and yeast within it. We conducted various experimental studies together. I had the chance to reach new findings which would advance my work in a shorter period.
Meanwhile, I also had the opportunity to meet and connect with many people in the art field. I had the chance to meet the sponsoring company ORTA and visit their production facilities. I was impressed by the sustainability policies of ORTA which distinguishes them from other textile companies operating in Turkey. Thanks to the production budget they allocated for my residency, I was able to undertake a larger-scale production than I had previously had the opportunity to.
Damla, thank you very much for sharing your delightful experiences with us. You are working in a very special field, doing valuable work for the future. Your efforts involve biology, chemistry, production dynamics, and art. By blending all these different disciplines, you are striving to develop both ideas and innovations in a completely new field. I truly admire your work. I assure you that I will be in touch and I hope we can meet again to explore your future innovative projects.
If you would like to learn more about biotextiles, you can access our blog post from the link below.
